Bodrum was once a cozy fishing village of only a few thousand people. It is where the Mediterranean and the Aegean sea meet. It has experienced a growth spurt over the last half century that has transformed this once-sleepy community into one of Turkey’s most popular vacation areas. Population is now 136,000. Matt told us that the population basically doubles during the summer months.
One we arrived in Bodrum from Selcuk, Matt took us to see the Bodrum castle. The castle like many other places we have visited is presently being restored, so we were only able to see a small portion of it. The castle overlooks the harbor and the international marina. It was constructed by the Knights of Rhodes in the 15th century during the crusades of the middle ages.
Matt brings us to the “Azra Can”, our goulet for the next three days. We say goodbye to Matt; another great guide. He will be remembered for his funniest expression…”I just love this”, especially when it came to food.!
A goulet (also spelled gulet) is a traditional design of a two-masted or three-masted wooden sailing vessel from the southwestern coast of Turkey, particularly built in the coastal towns of Bodrum and Marmaris. They sail along the coast and are now mainly used for tourists.
We have spoiled ourselves and hired a private goulet, just two staterooms. Our captain, Farouk has been sailing goulets for over five years and our young cook, Mehmet, told us that he learnt how to cook working in a restaurant for one year, then cooking on goulets.
As we start to head out, the anchor gets stuck…oh oh!. With some help, they finally get the anchor up, and we head out in late afternoon. Pretty calm seas, but I have put on a motion sickness patch just in case. Robin has an iron stomach, and does not seem to be bothered by motion. We enjoy looking over all of the beautiful goulets and mega yachts in the harbour. We even see a large steel grey yacht which is called “007” and has a gun emblem…..now…..that is tacky…..wouldn’t want to be seen on that one!
We get to a small cove and Faye and I jump in to get cooled off. Mehmet serves our first meal. Way too much food, so delicious and beautiful presentation. Can’t get over the fact that he prepares this wonderful meal in such a small kitchen. Our first dinner was comprised of a green salad, seaweed (kind of a stringy bean), deep fried calamari, mashed potatoes, fried squid, cooked cucumber with carrots in the middle. We have tasted the seaweed before served with yogurt and very good indeed. He also want to serve fish, but we told him that this was simply too much food.
This is a very relaxing way to travel and a welcome change from our hectic touring of the past week. Allows us to chill out a little.
So for the next three days we take things easy. No rush to do anything. Our crew is more than happy to work on our schedule. Breakfast around 9 am, then a dip in the ocean to cool off, then off to the next inlet. So much fresh fruit, local cheese and olives for breakfast and whatever kinds of eggs we would like.
We keep telling Mahmet that he is such a good cook. His presentation is also marvellous, worth pictures. Faye asked him if he wanted to come back to Canada and cook for her…he just smiles. He hardly speaks or understands english so Farouk usually translates. Mahmet is also very good at re-purposing food. For example if we don’t eat the fruit for breakfast, it becomes a snack. Tomatoes and cucumbers become a salad. Fish becomes an appetizer; nothing goes to waste.
Our overnight stops have been near villages and just love to see the lights coming on, so beautiful.
We take a shore excursion one afternoon to a very small village. The ride to shore is in the small zodiac. All local Turkish people here enjoying a holiday. Enjoy another cold beer with beautiful ocean views.
It is quite something to watch Farouk and Mahmet work together to get the boat moored in a cove for an afternoon stop or overnight. They work in harmony. The boat stops a ways off a shore then Mahmet hops in a zodiac boat and takes a rope to the shore and he wraps the rope around a large rock and this holds the stern of the boat. In the interim Mahmet has let out the anchor at the front of the boat. Between the anchor and the rope, the boat is well secured.
Technology these days is incredible. The boat is equipped with televisions, although we did not have them on, why would you! Also, we have internet capability; unbelievable. Many different areas to relax on the boat. Comfortable couch and table at the front, sun mattresses in different locations on the front as well. You can choose to lie in the sun or under the shade awning; all very comfortable.
On our final night on the boast we are moored in a town next to Bodrum. We arrive back in Bodrum about 11 am the next morning. Farouk moors the boat in a very tiny spot between other goulets, masterful piece of maneuvering. He tells us that normally most of these boats would be at sea, but tourism here has taken a real hit after the problems in Istanbul a couple of years ago and the low Turkish Lira when it relates to local Turks.
Robin and I take the opportunity to do a walkabout in the old town of Bodrum. Reminiscent of many small tourist seaside towns we have visited over the years. Winding lanes with shops selling tourist trinkets, bathing suits, clothes, jewellery and anything else one could spend their money. Also many restaurants along the marina.
We are picked up by a driver around 11 am and taken to the Bodrum airport. We are catching a flight back to Istanbul and then on to Athens. A long day of travelling. Finally arrive at our hotel in Athens around 9:30 pm. LOVED TURKEY!